How to choose a men's suit

A suit is the one piece in a man's wardrobe where anyone can tell at a glance whether it fits. The same suit can look expensive on one man and borrowed on another. The secret is usually not the price but the right size and cut. This guide covers what to check when you try one on, which colour to start with and how to choose a suit for the office or a wedding.

Start with the shoulders

When you try on a jacket, look at the shoulders first. The shoulder seam should end exactly where your shoulder ends.

• If the seam drops past your shoulder and the fabric sags at the top of the sleeve, the jacket is too big.
• If a dent or crease forms at the top of the sleeve and the jacket pinches your shoulders, you need a size up.
• The jacket collar should sit against your shirt collar, not stand away from your neck.

Buttons, length and sleeves

Button the jacket and stand in front of a mirror.

• Buttoned up, the jacket should lie flat. If the fabric pulls around the button into an "X", it is too tight.
• The top button of a two-button jacket should sit at your natural waist or slightly above. That makes your torso look longer and better balanced.
• Length: a classic jacket covers your seat, and with your arms relaxed its hem is roughly level with your fist.
• Sleeves end at the wrist bone, so that about 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff shows below the jacket.

The rule is easy to remember: never fasten the bottom button of a single-breasted jacket. On a two-button jacket you fasten only the top one; on a three-button jacket, the middle one. Unbutton when you sit down and button up again when you stand.

The trousers and their length

Suit trousers should sit comfortably at the waist even without a belt, not pull across the thighs and not sag at the back. The length decides how the trouser leg meets your shoe:

• No break: the hem barely touches the shoe. A clean, modern look that works especially well with a slim cut.
• Slight break: the hem rests on the shoe and forms one soft fold. The most versatile option.
• Full break: the fabric bunches on the shoe in several folds. It looks dated today and is best avoided.

Try the trousers on with the shoes you plan to wear with the suit: heel height changes the length.

Size, cut and fabric

Suits come in European sizes: 48, 50, 52 and so on. The size is roughly half your chest measurement in centimetres, so a 100 cm chest usually means a size 50. Still, make the final call after trying it on.

The cut matters too. A slim fit follows the line of the body and suits slender and athletic builds. An extra slim fit sits even closer and looks more modern. If you prefer more room, don't squeeze into a narrow jacket: pick the size you can move freely in.

Check the fabric as well. Wool breathes well and holds its shape for a long time. Blends with a little elastane have a slight stretch and are comfortable if you wear the suit all day. Our range includes both 100% wool suits and blended fabrics with elastane. The composition of every suit is listed on its product page.

Single- or double-breasted

• A single-breasted jacket (one row of buttons) is the most versatile: it suits almost every build and every occasion. For a first suit it is the safest choice.
• A double-breasted jacket looks more formal and visually broadens the torso, so it works best on tall, slim men. It is always worn buttoned.

Which colour to start with

If this is your first or only suit, choose a colour that will work for as many occasions as possible.

• Navy is the most versatile colour. It works for the office, a business meeting and a wedding, and goes with white and light blue shirts and almost any tie.
• Charcoal is a restrained, serious colour that is especially at home in a business setting.
• Black is traditionally for evening and formal occasions. It is a popular choice for weddings and ceremonies, but less versatile for everyday office wear.

Once you have your main suit, you can add a separate blazer and wear it with different trousers for a more relaxed look.

A suit for the office and for a wedding

For the office, choose a navy or grey suit, a white or light blue shirt and a restrained tie. If you wear a suit almost every day, it's best to have at least two, so you can alternate them and let each one rest.

For a wedding, it depends on who you are. A guest looks best in a navy or grey suit with a white shirt and a more festive tie. The groom can choose a black or navy suit and, for an evening ceremony, a bow tie.

Quick checklist

• The shoulder seam ends at the edge of my shoulder
• The buttoned jacket lies flat, with no pulling
• 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff shows below the sleeve
• I tried the trousers on with the shoes I'll wear
• The colour suits the occasions I'm buying for

Pierre Cardin is a French fashion house founded in Paris in 1950 by the designer Pierre Cardin. You can browse the brand's suits, blazers and shirts in our online shop or try them on in the Pierre Cardin stores in Yerevan Mall, MegaMall Armenia and Rio Mall (open daily 10:00–22:00). We deliver anywhere in Armenia for 1,500 ֏, and within 2 hours in Yerevan. If the size isn't right, you can exchange or return an item within 14 days at one of our Yerevan stores, unworn and with its tags on.